Tokunoshima Island of the Amami Islands

Tokunoshima, also known as Tokuno Island, is one of the Amami Islands in Kagoshima Prefecture. It is easy to see why such a large part of the island was designated as a UNESCO World Natural Heritage Site. Tokunoshima is surrounded by coral reefs frequented by sea turtles, features a unique geological landscape with numerous underwater limestone rivers connected to the sea—including Japan’s largest—and is home to primeval subtropical forests inhabited by many endemic species.

Many of Tokunoshima’s beaches are important nesting sites for two species of sea turtle: green sea turtles and loggerhead sea turtles. Hundreds of turtles come ashore to lay their eggs on the island every year.

Tokunoshima also has numerous excellent off-the-beach snorkeling spots. Our favorite is Senma Coast, where a dramatic sheer drop-off begins very close to shore. The area is home to numerous resident sea turtles as well as beautiful tropical fish, and it is often said to be almost impossible to snorkel here without spotting a sea turtle. Senma Coast is not recommended when there are strong southerly winds. In those conditions, we recommend this spot, where sea turtles can also be found just a short swim from Akirigami Fishing Port.

Shinde Beach is particularly good for families with small children at low tide, when its shallow lagoon reveals abundant marine life and soft corals. The drop-off just outside the lagoon is also frequented by sea turtles. Shinde Beach is one of the most important sea turtle nesting sites on Tokunoshima. However, we would avoid it in strong northerly, easterly, or southerly winds.

Kinenhama Beach is also well worth visiting at high tide, when its idyllic lagoon is at its most beautiful.

Setakai Seaside Park is recommended for its idyllic beach and crystal-clear turquoise lagoon when strong easterly winds make east-facing beaches less suitable.

Tokunoshima is also known for its numerous underground limestone rivers, many of which are connected to the sea, such as Unbuki. Some of the island’s limestone caves can also be explored, including Yooki Cave, where people lived until around 1,000 years ago, and Ginryudo. Kojima Limestone Cave is particularly spectacular: after walking through a waterfall inside a completely dark cave, you eventually emerge through an opening in the sheer sea-facing cliff.

We also love the tropical fruits grown on Tokunoshima. We usually buy them at this farmers’ market, at local A-Coop supermarkets, or from unmanned roadside “honesty shops” run by local farmers throughout the island. If you visit Tokunoshima between mid-July and mid-August, don’t miss the fully tree-ripened mangoes. They are exceptionally sweet, with sugar levels reaching around 25° Brix, compared with just 10–15° Brix for ordinary mangoes.

For accommodation, we recommend staying at one of the Denpaku properties, which are tastefully renovated traditional wooden houses. Most have their own outdoor seating areas, making them particularly pleasant for relaxing after a day of exploring. For larger groups, we highly recommend Private Villa Isola, which has a swimming pool and outdoor seating area.

Our favorite restaurants on Tokunoshima so far are Cafe Tougura—where you can often spot humpback whales from the café in February—and Maru Hachi.